7-30-17
Just got home for Red River Gorge climbing.  Had a great 2 days of climbing and hiking.  I didn't do anything special but I did get to watch Mattheis do an 11 c or d - that was pretty awesome!

7-27-17
AM Stiff and sore today
Concept 2 on #4 - 1000 meters at 2:26 - nice and smooth
 Floor work and stretching
Jump Squats - just body weight x 25 x 3 sets

Full squats on toes - 10 x 3

Calves and feet Stretches
Negative one leg squats to bench - starting to work on doing pistols again - haven't done one since the last knee surgery - knees not too happy with these
Sit in bottom of pistol holding onto rings
***41" Bar Jump*** 70 x 70 item
*** Full Back Lever*** 70 x 70 item
Rec Center Climbing Wall tonight - it was HangBoard day but skipping because of climbing this weekend

·     Some commonly used terms you will find in my training log.

          PVC – these are breathing exercises (movements) done with a piece of PVC pipe

·       ISG – Ivanko Super Grippers

·       ARC - Aerobic, Respiration, and Capillarity.  This is where you get on and stay on a climbing wall for extended lengths of time without stopping with the goal of increasing local endurance in the climbing muscles or fingers, forearms, and toes.

·       KB = Kettle Bell

·       Hang Board is a device used to increase finger strength for climbing.  A “board” with various holds on which you “hang” with weight either added or subtracted from body weight.

·       40 degree chest pulls – this is a board at a 40 degree angle with climbing holds on it – I can either do simple pulls like inverted rows – or actually climb up and down it

·       Block Weights – are one end of a dumb bell lifted by pinching the sides

·       Leverage Squat machine – a design of my own for doing squats that is easier on my lower back.  It does have a mechanical advantage – the weight on my shoulders is less than the weight listed

·        

7-26-17
AM
Bike Trainer - 20 minutes
Dexterity Balls - Reverse Wrist Curls - ISG
Push Ups - 30
Finger and Forearm stretches
Squats on Toes - 25 - Knees a little ouchy at the bottom
Planned Deload Day - feeling pretty good really

7-25-17
AM
Concept 2 on #4 - 500m at 2:13 - 16 spm
Concept 2 on #4 - 500m at 1:55 - 21 spm
Jump Squats - 45# x 25 reps
One Arm KB Carry - 16K KB x one lap around house L&R
Hanging L Sit Leg Spreads - 50 reps
Band Triceps - Light Band x 20
Reverse Bending - 3 60d nails - no rest between

Meds seem to be holding OK - a twinge now and then around the time for the next pill but pretty good overall.  Still having a few side effects but they seem better every day.

7-24-17
AM
PVC Breathing Exercises
ARC on my climbing wall here at home - 15 minutes
Hang Board - 2 sets all the way through today - I now have all the loads and deload weights figured out - so workouts will start being hard now
Block Weights - 25# Hex x 10 - 35# Hex x 10 - 40# York x 3 Right - none left
40 degree uneven chest pulls - 10 reps each way
Curls - 45# as fast as possible - 25 reps
Some forearm and finger stretching and some whole body stretching
Done

Medicine side effects seem better today.  A few twinges of pain but no problem really.

7-23-17
AM
Dexterity Balls -  Reverse Wrist Curls - ISG
Concept 2 on #3 - 500m at 2:08 - Max HR 114 - 17 spm
Concept 2 on #3 - 500m at 1:52 - Max HR 124 - 23 spm
Overhead Press - 45# x 25 reps as fast as possible - 2 sets
Bent Over Rows -  45# x 25 reps as fast as possible - 2 sets
Calf Stretches
Band Triceps - Light band x 15
Sit ups - feet anchored - as many as possible in 60 seconds - I got 54 - first time in years I didn't break 60 - I felt strong and didn't tire - I just could not move very fast - even at the beginning - the medicine maybe? - I'll ask the doc about that

7-22-17
AM - I went to 1/2 pill starting last night (and again this morning).  Zero pain still!!!  Not as Dizzy but still shaky and pretty drowsy still (biggest problem).
Bike Trainer - 30 minutes
Jump Squats - 45# x 2 sets of 25
Glute ham Raises - 8 reps
Hanging L Sit Leg Spreads - 20 reps slow motion - hard :)
Calf and forearm/finger stretching - very shaky still during forearm stretches - twitching a lot

Light days

7 - 21 - 17
AM - a little dizzy and a touch "shaky" I guess describes it - side effect of the drug maybe?
No Face Pain but a slight headache - forgot allergy pill this morning - no biggie
Concept 2 on #4 - 500 meters at 2:12 pace and 15 strokes per min
Concept 2 on #4 - 500 meters at1:56 pace and 19 strokes per min
ARC on my climbing wall here at home - easy side only
Hangboard routine
Block Weights - 25 - 35# Hexes x 7  40# York x no lifts either hand today - sissy hands :)
40 degree chest pulls - uneven hands x 9 each hand on top
Curls - 45# as fast as possible - 25 reps x 1 set

7-20-17 Body weight 194#
Not so dizzy this morning - still a little bit though.  NO PAIN - what a feeling!
AM
PVC Breathing exercises - this included some overhead squats as a warm up for
Cambered Bar Squats - 120 -210 -300# x 1  1.55x body weight - goal reached
Leverage Squat Machine - 135-180-225-315-405#  2.09 x body weight - goal reached
Both done to parallel or just below - a little low back ouch on the cambered bar - pretty easy on the leverage squat - could have gone higher
So 2 down on the list. I think I'll make Thursdays my test day for these as I will be climbing in the evening at the Rec Center.  Just try one or two each time and see how things go.  I feel SO much better today without the face pain. 

With my primary goal now changed to rock climbing I have lowered my expectations for my lifts.  The training to climb is not like training to lift.  I’m 3 days pain free now and hopeful it continues as it has really put a hurting on all my training.  I will begin testing on these lifts to see where I am currently.  But I am sure I am way down from a year ago.  I realize the training I have been doing for climbing is not going to give the same numbers but I think these percentages of bodyweight numbers should be reasonable even with the change in focus.  It’s going to take some time to get back where I want to be – the face pain had me really struggling to do even the easiest of workouts. Bodyweight hovers around 190# to 194#.

Exercise	Goal Weight	Where I am now
Squat - Cambered Bar	1.5 x BW	Done 300#
Front Squat	1x BW
Leverage Squat	2 x BW	Done 400#
Strict Press	.70 x BW
Push Press	.85 x BW
One Arm Press	72# KB
One Arm Push Press	85# DB
Squat Snatch	60K
Squat Clean	80K
Push Ups	30 reps
Dumbell Bench Press	50# x 20
Chin Ups - neutral grip	15 reps
Front Lever	3 breaths
Back Lever	3 breaths
Invert to low L Sit & return	10 reps
EZ Bar Curls - fairly strict	125#
Dumbell One Arm Curl	60#
Ab Wheel on knees	100 Reps
Ab Wheel on feet	5 reps
Hanging L Sit leg spreads	100 reps
Wrist Curls	175# for one
Wrist Curls	135# x 20
Concept 2 Row - 500 meters	1:40 pace
Concept 2 Row - 1000 meters	1:50 pace
Concept 2 Row - 2000 meters	2:00 pace
Top Rope on sight	5.11a
Top Rope - Projected	5.12a
Lead - Sport	5.10a
Lead - Trad	5.9
COC 2.5 R&L	1 Rep
Euro Pinch	216#
Sledge to Face	16# or 20#
Flask	200#

7-19-17
Same day as earlier - just want to say how great it is to not have the reoccurring sharp pain that's about a 9 on the scale.  I was getting pretty bummed thinking it might be a forever kind of pain.  Thank God (and modern medicine) for this drug.

7-19-17
New meds are making me real dizzy feeling.
AM
Resting HR is high this morning - 69
Concept 2 on #4 - 500m at 2:29 at 15 spm
Concept 2 on #4 - 1000m at 2:13 at 18 spm
Jump Squats with 45# - 25 reps by 2 sets
Ab Wheel on knees - 25 reps by 2

For the first time in 7 months I worked out with no face pain !!!
Balance was really shot but that's a trade off I can live with - Doc said it might happen but that it should improve as time goes on.  I'll take it!!!

7-18-17
Dr Towning this morning - have a diagnosis of Trigeminal Neurlgia and a new drug to try for it.  Sure hope it works - this pain is getting old after 7 months.

3PM
Dex Balls - Reverse Wrist Curls - ISG
ARC - 20 minutes on my home wall
Hang Board
Block Weights - 25 - 35 x 6 L&R - 40# x 1 L&R
40 degree chest pulls (a climbing movement) - 8 reps x 2
Curls - speed work - 45# x 15
Forearm and Finger stretching
Band Triceps - 20 reps with light band

7-17-17
First post on my new Blog!  I
I've been dealing with some serious face pain for 7 months now - it looks like we've finally started getting a handle on it - and for that I am thankful.

AM
Concept 2 on #4 - 500m at 2:12 and 16 strokes per minute
Concept 2 on #4 - 500m at 1:58 and 19 strokes per minute
Jump Squats  45# x 10 - face pain each rep
Jump Squats 45# x 15 - no face pain
G/H Raises - 6 reps x 2
Hanging L Sit Leg Spreads - 20 reps x 2